Despite France having one of the highest rates of mixed marriages, there's a surprising lack of understanding when it comes to Afro beauty and textured hair. For a long time relegated to niche 'ethnic' stores, the global Black beauty market is now experiencing a profound revolution. Today, much like their Caucasian counterparts, dark-skinned muses are dominating major brand advertising campaigns. Think Jourdan Dunn (Yves Saint Laurent), Lupita Nyong’o (Lancôme), Winnie Harlow (Desigual), Rihanna (Mac), and Sonia Rolland (Mixa). Unfortunately, France still lags significantly behind its transatlantic neighbors, particularly the United States. This piece will explore the reasons behind France's slow progress in the Afro beauty market.
A FASHION LAG...
According to a study, in February 2013, 82.7% of models hired during Fashion Week were white, compared to 9.1% Asian and 6% Black. The cause of this discrimination is said to be the scarcity of ethnic models in French fashion agencies. Proof that France is significantly lagging behind the United States and the rest of the world. Some fashion sociologists also state that these non-Caucasian models have a better chance of making a career across the Atlantic, where they are better and more represented. However, this does not prevent discrimination in the United States. Remember, I recently told you about the search of Black women's hair at certain American customs checkpoints.
... BUT ADVANCES IN BEAUTY!
Regarding Afro beauty, French society is also lagging, even if we can note some improvements. Cosmetic brands dedicated to ethnic beauties, product lines specially designed for coily hair, foundations adapted to different skin tones, cosmetic brands seem to be more on point in this area. Indeed, today Black women can buy their cosmetic products elsewhere than in Château Rouge or Château d’Eau in Paris. They no longer need to gather on forums to make group purchases of cosmetics from foreign websites. In 2017, one only needs to go to large retailers to realize that the ethnic beauty sector has gradually become democratized.
STILL A LONG WAY TO GO
Even if cosmetic brands continue to expand their range and products to meet the multiple needs of African consumers, the products offered remain very few compared to the astronomical quantity offered to white skin. One could almost compare this difference to that found between ready-to-wear stores for men and women. Men have far fewer choices than women. And this scenario is repeated in the field of cosmetics: ethnic beauties have far fewer choices than Caucasian women. While Black women reportedly consume 9 times more cosmetics than Caucasian women, with a budget of 980 euros per year.
WHY THIS LAG?
According to my very personal analysis, this lag is due to our mentality. Like all countries, France has its own vision of beauty. And unfortunately, the beauty stereotype is Caucasian. This is why so many Black women struggle to embrace their coily hair and their beautiful afro. They are taught from a young age that their hair is 'abnormal' and that it needs to be straightened, relaxed, or hidden under weaves. And as long as the fashion industry does not deign to change its habits regarding models, this is unlikely to evolve.
