Coily, curly, kinky hair... isn't it time we asked the uncomfortable question? Can you truly walk into just any hair salon without risking major disappointment? The reality, as many of us know, is nuanced. Yes, some salons are genuinely skilled at welcoming and styling all hair textures. But no, this expertise is far from universal. The root cause? Hairdressing education that still heavily prioritizes straight hair. The good news is, specialized organizations are actively working to change this narrative. Here's a step-by-step guide to understanding the current situation and finding the perfect salon that will truly cherish and care for your beautiful curls.
Step 1 – The CAP coiffure, a mandatory but incomplete qualification
In France, to open a hair salon, the CAP coiffure is mandatory. It's the legal foundation: all salons must employ at least one qualified professional. On paper, this should guarantee universal expertise.
Problem: the CAP curriculum is primarily built around straight or slightly wavy hair. Techniques specific to coily or kinky hair are almost never covered.
The result? Many hairdressers graduate without ever having styled Afro hair.
Step 2 – Why coily hair remains a blind spot
Coily hair requires specific techniques. Its density, its retraction (the famous shrinkage), and its natural fragility imply adapted methods. A cut, a blow-dry, or even a color treatment are not performed in the same way as on fine, straight hair.
In addition, there are so-called “protective” hairstyles (braids, twists, locs), essential for preserving the health of textured hair. However, they are absent from traditional curricula. It's no wonder that many traditional salons don't dare to venture into this area.
Step 3 – Afro salons, pioneers of hair diversity
Faced with this lack, Afro salons have long been the only refuge for coily hair. Their expertise: adapted care, respectful cuts, and mastery of protective hairstyles. They welcome a clientele that, for decades, couldn't find its place in so-called “classic” salons.
Even today, Afro salons remain essential addresses for anyone seeking a service perfectly adapted to coily or curly textures.
Step 4 – Training is evolving (finally)
The good news is that the sector is moving. Specialized organizations have made it their mission to fill the gaps in the CAP coiffure curriculum and train hairdressers in hair diversity.
- Les Ateliers Crépus: pioneers in professional training for coily, kinky, and curly hair. Their pedagogy is recognized, to the point of having been solicited by institutions like the Comédie-Française to train hairdressers in textured hair.
- Dioka Academy: a Qualiopi certified organization, specializing in professional training for styling Afro and curly hair.
- Studio Ana’e: a multi-texture training center (straight, curly, coily hair), also Qualiopi certified, positioning itself as a key player.
- Haircare brands (Activilong, Les Secrets de Loly…): they also organize masterclasses to share best practices and democratize adapted care.
Even better, a major breakthrough has emerged: the creation of a national certification “Hairdressing Techniques for Specific Hair, Curly to Coily” (RS6020). Recognized by the State, it officially values this skill and allows salons to display certified expertise.
Step 5 – Salons opening up to all hair types
Thanks to these new training programs, some traditional salons are finally opening up to a more diverse clientele. Their goal: to be able to accommodate all textures, from fine, straight hair to the densest coily hair.
For clients, it's a small revolution. These mixed salons offer:
- a more inclusive experience, where everyone finds their place,
- an expanded range of services, from classic blow-dries to African braids,
- a better understanding of specific needs.
But beware: these establishments remain a minority. Finding a salon that clearly displays its expertise in coily hair still requires some research.
Step 6 – How to know if a salon is truly suitable?
Before booking, a few simple checks:
- Check their social media: a salon that regularly posts work on coily hair proves its expertise.
- Read their service menu: if specific treatments or protective hairstyles are mentioned, that's reassuring.
- Don't hesitate to ask: “Have you ever styled coily hair? Have you undergone specific training?”
These questions are not intrusive: they simply show that you are looking for a quality service.
So, can you go to any hair salon with coily hair? Not yet. The CAP coiffure still doesn't sufficiently cover this texture, and many professionals don't feel comfortable with it. But the trend is changing: with organizations like Les Ateliers Crépus, Dioka Academy, or Studio Ana’e, and the new national certification, French hairdressing is moving towards greater diversity and inclusivity.
For clients, the message is clear: take the time to verify the salon's communication and skills. And if you're looking for an uncompromising experience, Afro salons remain the safest addresses to have your curls enhanced, respecting their nature.
